Yoke-shaping is governed by measurement; let us take as an example the sweater given below. The raglan sweater style is fun to knit, and I love how the shaping becomes a design element. Im familiar with the general concenpt, but unsure of how Ill know where to start the raglan increases. The shaping of the sleeve must match the front and back shaping so that all the pieces fit together properly. The line you measure should be perpendicular to the floor, not at an angle to the middle of the neck (see illustration above). lol To allow for a better fitting neckline on crew neck raglan pullovers, designers will add short row shaping along the back of the neck to raise the back above the front . The first that I want to talk about is top-down seamless raglan. However you can still get a trim fit with the addition of waist or bust shaping. P.S. Because raglan shaping produces such a clear diagonal line on the front and back of the garment, the increases used to add width are often decorative. Great job and thank you for sharing! When I pick them up to begin my neck, those increase stitches look funny picked up and knitted. THE CIRCULAR YOKE Two ways of visualizing the circular-yoke sleeve and body. if you'll be casting on 16 underarm sts, you'll work raglan increases in the front/back until you have 83 sts, then 16 will be cast on at the underarm, giving you 99. . Throughout this Interweave series on raglan fit and construction, all contributors have proclaimed their love for top-down raglans and raglans in general. Day 5 Pattern - click here for a PDF of sizes XS through XXL! You can do this by adding short rows across the back of the neck. *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. Note: I've used inches below. Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. Ive struggled with them for longer than I should have, and am learning a lot! It is used to suggest a smaller needle size for the ribbing. are different: I love your site, especially the raglan seamless sweater calculator. This is the final post of our series. The Slopes Pullover and Azure Lake Sweater feature circular-yoke shaping, decorated with seamless patterning. And it addresses the difference between the stitch gauge and the row gauge which very rarely are equal. Knitting is an art, but the engineering-part of my brain is constantly questioning why so many designs can't just be explained as formulas. (8 sts inc at raglans, 2 at front neck, per inc row) Sweaters with raglan shaping have distinctive "seams" between the front (s), back, and sleeves that form diagonal lines running from the neck edge to the base of the armholes. Your continued efforts to share knowledge is a treasure and so encouraging to knitters of all experiences. When working a raglan sweater pattern, each piece can be worked bottom-up or top-down. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. Raglan. be aware that this pattern is a percentage approximation. Lisas designs from Knitting Plus are lovely. Add a few extra raglan increases after you've split for the arms and body. Or be a bit Remember - what we're doing with short rows is leaving some stitches in the front unworked. over his head if I do it exactly the way the pattern spits out. A knitter who does excel! The most basic would be a kfb (knit into the front and back of the stitch). It's knitting a little pocket for a nonexistent neck boob. To do this neatly, you cast-on the underarm stitches and then join up the back of your body and work on to the other side. If the pattern has you decrease evenly between the bicep and the neck, add your new decreases at the top and bottom. I would not like to have to tear up the entire jacket. I do have a question that Im wondering if you could help with. I figured it out decently enough for my daughter, so I'll do ok with this one, as well - calculator can accommodate another increment or two for fine tuning. Hey, I just came across this while making a search on raglan. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, How to Sew Crochet Motifs to Your Clothes, 5 Things That Made Our Yarn-y Hearts Happy at Yarn Fest Loveland 2023, Floral Beaded Jewelry Patterns for Mothers Day, Unique Ways to Have Quality Yarn-Time with Mom. One of the disadvantages of sweaters constructed seamlessly is the lack of structure provided by seams. Now we see why the sweater might poof out just above the breasts or right at the armpit. I prefer to turn to the wrong side of the work and using a Cable Cast-On, which is lovely and firm. adventurous. Several other designers, following Maggie Righettis advice from Sweater Design in Plain English, similarly praise compound shaping and its endless flexibility. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? Raglan length goes all the way up to your shoulder so it will be different for every sweater depending on neck width, depth. The sleeves are worked from the top down starting with stitches picked up from around the armhole.. One last thing - about that short row shaping rate. You must enter a numeric value in all text boxes. Whether . Right after the bust, we decrease dramatically in circumference, then we dont change very much in the mid chest, and then our circumference narrows rapidly from the shoulder to the chest. This means that for larger bust sizes using traditional construction, the sleeves will be too large. Cecelia. Copyright 2023, Kristen TenDyke Designs | Powered by Shopify. for kids and adults. Do not round this number. Divide shoulder width by 2 for starting neck depth. Both sweaters are for my kiddos. But you can also use this information to modify a pattern you're working from. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. Want to go deeper on front neck shaping? I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. Why dont traditional raglans always fit womens figures perfectly, even when designers, crocheters, and knitters have achieved the perfect armhole depth? Knitting In the Round 3 Ways: DPNs, Two Circulars, or Magic Loop? Wauw - I'm really impressed and glad to find another excel-fan. Very nice overview of techniques! The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. The test square should be made by Caelius is the sweater in Dovestone Hills that uses this shoulder construction method. To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. Regards, Sarah. A beautiful raglan sweater with a gorgeous cable design. When I get to the other side of the sleeve do I do it in the same order or do I reverse the way they lean? This sweater goes by formula (you will find percentages in parentheses), and up to the underarm is identical with my #4 Brooks and #8 Raglan models. The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion Overall, consider how much neck depth the shoulder shaping is contributing, and evaluate how much additional depth neckline shaping adds. It doesnt always create perfect results, but with a little bit of knowledge, you can easily adjust patterns to suit your body and taste. I added red lines to make these changes easier to see (and to make Euclid cry). If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. Or you can choose one of our designs, and get the pattern custom generated for your gauge and measurements. sweater neck do not work on children with large heads! Determine how deep you want the front neck to be - desired front neck depth, This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. For each raglan seam I do one increase before and a different one after it. That will tell you how your stitch counts change as you move from the underarm to the neck. Please confirm you want to block this member. The best feature of this method is that you don't need to change your needle size or yarn to This was traditionally the most common method of top-down knitting as its very easy to knit. Measure the distance straight down from the shoulder seam to the level where you want the neckline to be, in a line parallel to the button placket. All Rights Reserved. Yet not all crocheters and knitters embrace the raglan as we have done. Yes, since you're measuring your body, but that won't have anything to do with the raglan length. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. Id like to repeat my basic rules of fit from an earlier post: 1) The fashion industry assumes that all human bodies follow all of the same geometrical principles at all times. Before launching into your short rows, you will need to calculate the number of rows youll be following the pattern instructions before beginning your neck shaping. Because the shoulders and armholes are not well defined on a raglan sweater, there tends to be a little extra fabric in the underarm area. Once youve worked those rows, place a stitch marker in the middle of the front stitches (if its odd number of stitches, mark the middle stitch with a locking stitch marker). Important: Make a test square in the pattern stitch in Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. This is awesome! Custom Raglan Cardi Knit-Along, Week 3: Adjusting Body Length & Adding Waist Shaping. If you have an odd number of neck stitches, Bottom neck stitches should also be odd, and if you have an even number of neck stitches, bottom neck stitches should be even. If you're a designer and you're doing this and you want to help me understand what your goal was, please do write back! Yarn overs may be used on a womens garment, or a cable or another decorative feature may be worked along the raglan line to bring more emphasis to the shaping. You will need to know the number of stitches in the front and each shoulder. However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. The body and sleeves can be worked separately in pieces that are seamed together or the body and sleeves can be worked in the round to the armholes, then joined and worked in a single piece to the neck. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! Short Row Shaping at the Back Neck. It starts with a cowl neck, uses short rows to shape the back of the neck and then uses raglan increases on either side of a decorative seam.

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